Dubai markets its skyline. Two miles from it sits a nineteenth-century trading port that most visitors never see, and it is the more interesting half of the city.
The old city
Al Fahidi, also called Bastakiya — a restored quarter of coral and gypsum houses with wind towers, an early form of passive air conditioning that channels breeze down into the rooms.
Narrow shaded lanes, small museums, galleries and courtyard cafés. About ten minutes by metro from downtown.
Dubai Museum in the Al Fahidi fort, the oldest building in the city.
The Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding runs meals and discussions where questions about Emirati life and Islam are explicitly invited — a genuinely useful thing that few visitors find.
The creek and the souks
Abras — small wooden boats crossing Dubai Creek between Deira and Bur Dubai for one dirham. They have run for generations, depart when full, and are both the cheapest transport in the city and the most atmospheric thing in it.
On the Deira side:
The Gold Souk — window after window of it, and the prices are by weight plus a making charge, which is negotiable.
The Spice Souk, adjacent.
The dhow wharfage, where wooden cargo boats still load goods for Iran, India and East Africa by hand. This is a working port, not a display.
The modern city
Burj Khalifa — levels 124 and 125 at one price, level 148 considerably higher. Sunset slots cost more and sell out first.
The cheaper alternative: a drink at a bar in a nearby tower, which gets you a view of the Burj Khalifa.
Dubai Mall below it — the aquarium, the fountain show outside which is free and runs every half hour in the evening.
Dubai Marina and JBR for the beach and the walk.
The Museum of the Future, architecturally striking and timed-entry.
Palm Jumeirah, best understood from the monorail or from above.
Outside the city
Desert trips — dune driving, camel rides and dinner camps. The quality varies enormously; the quieter conservation-reserve operators are considerably better than the large dune-bashing convoys.
Hatta, in the mountains, for hiking and the dam.
Abu Dhabi, 90 minutes away, for the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque — which is free, enormous, and requires full covering including a headscarf for women, provided at the entrance.
Practical
Season: November to March, at 24–30°C. June to September regularly exceeds 40°C with humidity, which confines you indoors.
The metro is cheap, clean and covers the main axis. A Nol card covers it and the buses.
Dress modestly in the old city, souks and malls — shoulders and knees. Beach and hotel areas are relaxed.
Alcohol is served in licensed hotels and restaurants rather than generally.
Ramadan changes opening hours and daytime eating in public. Check the dates, which move each year.